Frankly, I am not very good in designing a pattern. Refering to books and free patterns are always the best way to learn something new, especially when you try to create your own masterpiece… Thus, whenever you came up with an idea, it is always the best to start with the basic, and definitely goes same when it comes to crochet. After quite awhile I leave my hook and needles aside.. this is my second attempt of making something new, but yet, something basic. This Shello Muffler I called, looks complicated but yet very easy when you start making it :). I come up with and idea of making a muffler after I watched my hubby helping me untangled this yarn for few hours.. ahh.. thank you so much, canim! If not because of him, I would already cut the yarn in the middle and leave the others 😛 so wasting aren’t I? My bad habit!
Using a ball of Alize Diva Yarn and 2.5mm hook.. I created this Shello Muffler. Why I called it a Shello Muffler? Hehe.. the word shello actually comes from Shell.. the pattern stitch i used are mostly the combination of shell. So its pretty easy! Yup, believe or not, you also can do it! I am not sure how many balls I will need to complete this one, but since I have two balls of this colour, so it will be more than enough to make one long muffler. Just that I have to make sure I am not stressing myself to finish this. Yea.. going to crochet it very slow… especially the school is going to open again next week.. oh well! Let’s forget it 😛
I miss to knit too.. Still thinking to knit something for myself.. but let’s see how! Perhaps a baby dress or sweater? 🙂
Thank you for hopping by to da’knit! May Allah swt bless us all.
Alhamdulillah.. that finally I received my yarns again from Turkey after long wait, This time after seeing my friends from YLM having this beautiful yarns, I could not resist to try them out too. So I contact with a friend, Belgin, my Turkish friend and bought this from her 🙂 10 balls of Alize yarns… they are burcum, sekerim(syekerim), diva, batik, burcum bebe batik. Ohhh… the thing is, I am not sure if i will ever start a project using these yarns. Seems for now, going to keep this as one of my colletion.
Enough with the new yarns.. Just now i received an email asking about how to make a mittenn and socks. InsyaAllah, I will try to provide a tutorial in time but I could not promise when.Honestly, it’s been a month I haven’t touch my knitting needles and hook. But two days ago, I started a new project again and hopefully I can complete it soon. Really having a very slow knit and cro.
InsyaAllah, I will upload the picture once done! 🙂
Thank you again for hopping by and drop by in Da’Knit. InsyaAllah when i’m feeling much better, will try to update more in the future again as before.
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May Allah swt always be with us, dunya ve akhirat. Amin..
Pattern ni bermula dari bawah ke atas… terbahagi kepada tiga bahagian, iaitu body, armhole dan neck…
1. Berdasarkan gambar untuk vest BACK.. mulakan dengan membuat CAST ON sebanyak 114 stitches menggunakan Jarum saiz 3.3mm.. (ini jepun punya saiz, manakala untuk US kita guna saiz 3.25mm) Kait secara RIBBING, iaitu Knit 1 Purl 1 sehingga habis baris dan turn Purl 1 Knit 1 sehingga habis baris sehingga PANJANG RIBBING ini mencecah 5cm.
2. Kemudian, teruskan baris seterusnya dengan mengurang sebanyak 5 stitches sehingga hanya ada 109 stitches sahaja dengan menggunakan saiz jarum 3.9mm di mana untuk US kita guna saiz 4mm. Kait menggunakan pattern stockinette stitch, iaitu satu baris knit, satu baris purl sehingga panjang sebelum ARMHOLE ialah 63cm ataupun kait sehingga mencapai 88 ROWS. Pastikan RIGHT SIDE adalah bahagian KNIT dan WRONG SIDE adalah bahagian PURL.
3. Setelah mencapai ROW yang ke 88.. kita akan masuk ke bahagian ARMHOLE. UNTUK ARMHOLE.. pastikan bahagian untuk dikait adalah bahagian RIGHT SIDE. Mengikut gambar, BO 4 sts bermaksud, BIND OFF sebanyak 4 stitches pada awal baris, kemudian kait KNIT seperti biasa sehingga habis baris. Kemudian, PUSING ke bahagian WRONG SIDE, BIND OFF lagi 4 stitches dan kait PURL sehingga habis baris.
4. Setelah habis BIND OFF 4 sts.. kita akan mulakan BIND OFF untuk setiap baris:
2-2-4 – Mula2 kita akan BIND OFF ikut arahan 2-2-4, iaitu, setiap kedua hujung baris ke-2, BIND OFF 2 sts, ulang langkah ini sehingga 4 KALI. Kemudian, masuk baris
2-1-4 – Setiap kedua hujung baris ke-2, BIND OFF sebanyak 1 stitch dan ulang langkah ini sehingga 4 KALI, kemudian, masuk baris
4-1-2 – Setiap kedua hujung baris yang ke-4, BIND OFF sebanyak 1 stitch dan ulang langkah ni sebanyak 2 KALI.
5. Setelah habis mengait bahagian baris ini.. teruskan kaitan tanpa ada DECREASE/INCREASE iaitu kait secara STOCKINETTE lagi ikut bilangan stitches yang tinggal sehingga keseluruhan ROW dari mula BIND OFF 4 sts mencapai 59 ROWS, dan pada ROW yang ke 60, Kait ikut pattern sebnyak 23 sts, kemudian kait 1-1-3 (iaitu selepas KAIT 22 sts pertama, BIND OF 1 sts, kemudian BIND OFF 27sts, kemudian BIND OF 1 sts, KAIT lagi sebanyak 22 sts) TURN… KAIT 21 sts, BIND OF 1 sts, TURN,BIND OFF 1 sts, KAIT 20 sts… putuskan Yarn, sambung kait di bahagian bahu sebelah, PICK UP 22 sts, TURN, BIND OFF 1 sts, KAIT 21, TURN, KAIT 21, BIND OFF 1 sts, maka kedua bahagian mempunyai 20 sts pada akhir kaitan. SIAP BAHAGIAN BELAKANG.
6. KALAU saya ada tersilap kira.. terutamanya bahagian SHOULDER, sila maklumkan ya.. sebab saya hanya translate berdasarkan gambar dan belum kait lagi pattern ni jadi kalau ada tersilap, sila perbetulkan. 🙂
May Allah swt bless us all.
What does this all mean?
For knitters who use the metric system, please ignore this paragraph; you do not need to convert to inches. As stated earlier, 10 cm is almost 4″. Actually it is just a hair over 3.9″ Most of the time, simply dividing by 4 will give you results close enough. That is what we are going to do in this instance. 31 divided by 4 equals 7.75 stitches per inch. 52 divided by 4 equals 13 rows per inch. It might not be possible to match this gauge. We will not tackle the issue of recharting for a different yarn right now. The focus of this lesson is just to learn to read the chart. Looking at the photo, the yarn appears to be similar to Tamm Diamante, in other words a hard finish yarn, not a soft, fuzzy one.
We will begin with the Back. The dotted vertical line means that this is half a pattern; it is similar to marks on the center back of a sewing pattern which indicate it should be placed on a fold of the fabric. The line at the bottom, extending out past the center vertical means that the entire garment width is 42 cm, or 130 sts. The number 1 plus the ladder (stitch symbol) in the band indicate that it should be done in 1×1 ribbing. You are expected to know that ribbing is worked at a tighter tension than Stockinette. In the middle of the Back, the large characters mean “Back” and the smaller ones under them mean “Stockinette”. Usually you will be able to determine this just from looking at the schematic, and at the photo of the garment. So, when knitting this pattern, we cast on 130 sts at tension appropriate for ribbing, which is usually 2 full numbers less than Stockinette tension. Knit even 39 rows, as shown in the vertical space between Back and Front at the band length. Since there are arrowheads at each lengthwise section, we are supposed to turn the row counter back to 000. Change to Stockinette, knit even to armhole, RC 76, and reset the row counter to 000, as indicated by the arrowheads.
At the armhole line, first there the symbols for rows, stitches, times, then the numeral 7 and the stitch sign in parentheses. This means that the shaping formula is rows-stitches-times (every xx rows, decrease xx sts xx times). We will do the armhole shaping, exactly as it is charted. Please note that the same shaping must be worked on both sides.
1. 7 plus stitch symbol = Bind off 7 sts at the beginning of the next row.
2. 2-2-2 = every 2 rows bind off 2 stitches 2 times.
3. 2-1-5 = every 2 rows decrease 1 stitch 5 times.
4. 4-1-3 = every 4 rows decrease 1 stitch 3 times.
5. 6-1-4= every 6 rows decrease 1 stitch 4 times.
This completes the armhole shaping. The -23 plus the stitch symbol at lower armhole means that a total of 23 stitches should have been decreased from each armhole edge. If we total all of the stitches in steps 1-5 above, we see that this is indeed the case. As further reference, look at the very top of the chart. The line indicating back width shows 27 cm, and 84 stitches remaining. 130 stitches, the amount at the cast on edge, less 46 sts (23 from each armhole) equals 84 stitches.
Now, looking at the armhole length line between Back and Front sections, we see that there are 106 rows between base of armhole and beginning of shoulder shaping. Therefore, knit even to RC 106. In this pattern there are 8 rows for neck shaping, and 8 rows for shoulder shaping. This is shown at the top on the pattern. Numbers at center back line indicate neck depth, and numbers between Back and Front indicate shoulder depth. The neck shaping figures are located inside the Back outline, and the shoulder shaping figures are outside. This is one time I would likely make a “cheat sheet” or T-Bar before knitting, since this involves some fairly complicated shaping. First reset the row counter to 000, as indicated by the arrowheads. We will assume that the carriage is on the right. The line directly above the schematic indicates that there are 13 sts in each shoulder, and 58 sts in the neck. The numeral 44 plus the stitch sign at top of center back line indicates that there are 44 stitches in center back neck. 7 stitches are in the neck shaping on each side. We will assume that the neck and shoulders are shaped by placing stitches into hold position.
RC 000, carriage on right. Place center 44 stitches, plus all other stitches left of center 0 into hold position. Set carriage to hold. Knit 1 row to the left, wrap first holding pos (HP) needle.
RC 001, carriage on left. Place 3 sts at right into HP for shoulder, Knit 1 row to the right, wrap first HP needle.
RC 002, carriage on right. Place 4 sts into HP for neck, Knit 1 row to the left, wrap first HP needle.
RC 003, carriage on left. Place 2 sts into HP for shoulder, Knit 1 row to the right, wrap first HP needle.
RC 004, carriage on right. Place 2 sts into HP for neck, Knit 1 row to the left, wrap first HP needle.
RC 005, carriage on left. Place 3 sts into HP for shoulder, Knit 1 row to the right, wrap first HP needle.
RC 006, carriage on right. Place 1 st into HP for shoulder, Knit 1 row to the left, wrap first HP needle.
RC 007, carriage on left. Place 2 sts into HP for shoulder, Knit 1 row to the right, wrap first HP needle.
RC 008. The funny “T” symbol indicates that shaping is completed at the neck edge, and to knit 2 rows even. Therefore, just Knit 1 row to the left, and DO NOT wrap. 3 sts remain in work position at the shoulder, as indicated by the 3, plus the stitch symbol in parentheses. Push the 10 HP shoulder stitches back about halfway on the bed (upper work position), Knit 1 row over all 13 shoulder stitches, and remove on waste yarn. Return left side to work pos and knit to correspond, reversing the shaping. When shoulder is completed, Knit 1 row main color across back neck sts, then remove on waste yarn.
Front is made similarly. A large intarsia pattern begins 31 rows above the waistband, as indicated by the line across the lower Front, and the row symbol plus numeral 31 on the right side. We will do the armhole shaping, exactly as it is charted. Please note that the same shaping must be worked on both sides.
1. 10 plus stitch symbol = Bind off 10 sts at the beginning of the next row.
2. 2-2-2 = every 2 rows bind off 2 stitches 2 times.
3. 2-1-5 = every 2 rows decrease 1 stitch 5 times.
4. 4-1-2 = every 4 rows decrease 1 stitch 2 times.
5. 6-1-2= every 6 rows decrease 1 stitch 2 times.
This shaping makes the front armhole narrow in faster than the back armhole. Now comes the trickiest part of the whole pattern. We must knit even to the neck edge. However, the row count number for this is not given. We must determine it mathematically. On the left side, the chart indicates there are 36 rows in the neck shaping. There are 106 rows for the armhole, plus an additional 8 rows for the shoulder shaping. 106 plus 8 equal 114 rows for total length above armhole. 114 minus 36 equal 78. Therefore we begin the front neck shaping on RC 78. Front shaping will be a little simpler than the Back, since neck shaping ends before shoulder shaping begins. We know this beacuse the final shaping note at the front neck edge is the numeral 18 plus the funny “T”, idicating 18 rows even after the last shaping row. Since there are 8 rows in the shoulder, there will be 10 rows even, with no shaping, between last neck decrease and first shoulder decrease. We will now write out the actual pattern.
RC 78. Carriage on right. Place center 24 sts, plus all other sts left of center 0 into HP. Set carriage to hold. Knit 1 row across to the left, wrap first HP needle, knit back to right.
RC 80. 2-4-1 = every 2 rows place 4 sts into HP 1 time.
RC 82. 2-3-2 = every 2 rows place 3 sts into HP 2 times.
RC 86. 2-2-1 = every 2 rows place 2 sts into HP 1 time.
RC 88. 2-1-5 = every 2 rows place 1 st into HP 5 times. This completes the neck shaping. Knit even to RC 106, same length as Back to shoulder.
Set row counter to 000. Knit 1 row across to the left. Place 3 sts into HP at right, knit 1 row, wrap first HP needle, knit back to left. Place 2 sts into HP at right, knit 1 row, wrap first HP needle, knit back to left. Place 3 sts into HP at right, Knit 1 row, wrap first HP needle, Knit back to left. Place 2 sts into HP at right, Knit 1 row to left. 3 sts remain in work pos. Push the 10 HP shoulder sts back half way to upper work pos, Knit 1 row to the right with main color, then remove on waste yarn. Return left side to work pos and knit to correspond, reversing all shaping. When left shoulder is completed, Knit 1 row MC across front neck sts, then remove on waste yarn.
© 1997 – 2002 by Irene Woods